Out in the Woods
- March 7th 2025
- Out in the Woods
Cattle crossing along Sanford Rail Trail. Note the flat stones placed to aid cattle footing.
Photo: Kevin McKeon
Trail Tells a Story of Cattle Crossings Past
By Kevin McKeon, Maine Master Naturalist
The heyday of railroad construction came to Sanford in the 1840s with the extension of the York and Cumberland Railroad to Springvale and continuing to Rochester around 1870. The tracks were abandoned and removed several decades ago, and the rail bed has since been used and lovingly maintained as the Sanford Rail Trail.
The topography and vegetation along the length of this trail running westerly from the trailhead at Hanson Ridge Road to the Sanford/Lebanon boundary suggests that the rail bed was built through an ancient beaver meadow created by centuries of beaver activity. Beaver-built dams slow the water in Branch River flowing from Deering Pond, causing sediment to settle and creating a highly productive, mineral rich soil that supports a biologically vibrant wetland, surrounded by open forestland — much of which is forever protected by local land trusts. All this has resulted in a diverse, wildlife-rich landscape for everyone to explore.
An interesting remnant of the railroad construction can be seen at the western boundary of Mousam Way Land Trust’s McKeon Reserve, where Branch Stream flows into Branch River. Prior to railroad construction, local farmers would drive their cattle over farm roads, through the valley and beaver meadow, and over Branch River, where river-side road bridge abutments still exist out in the meadow. From there, the cattle were driven up to the top of Hanson Ridge to fatten up on acorns from what once was a huge oak forest — the source of the name Oak Street. But before the cattle ate their share of acorns, local women would gather (always in groups because of the bears also fattening up!) to collect, roast, and grind the nuts into flour.
Branch River supports the existence of a type of wetland called a fen; it’s mapped by the State of Maine as an Inland Wading Waterfowl Habitat, protected as a Significant Wildlife Habitat, and given the colorful designation of IWWH #1887.
But the railroad construction created a barrier for these cattle drives, so cattle passes were built. In western states, cattle crossings were quite elaborate architectural structures. The cattle herds out there were substantial, and those folks wielded significant political influence. But around here, these crossings were relegated to rustic, “just good enough” affairs. When construction came about 100 feet from Branch Stream, a 5-foot by 55-foot granite culvert was built. Large, flat stones — which are still there — were placed on the ground for better cattle footing. Upon reaching Branch Brook, the bed was built solid, damming the original stream flow. This forced the stream’s flow to impound against the rail bed embankment, saturating the nearby soil to form the Branch Stream Fen. As the impounded water level rose against the embankment, it drained through the culvert, where the diverted flow eventually linked to Branch River, a headwater of the Little, Salmon Falls, and Piscataqua rivers. Beavers occasionally dam this culvert a bit, further enhancing wildlife diversity at the fen and surrounding landscape.
So next time you’re forest bathing along the western portion of Sanford’s Rail Trail walking along the McKeon Reserve’s boundary toward Lebanon, take a right at the Reserve’s trail sign at the cattle crossing culvert and walk north up the Fen Trail along a glacial ridge a couple of hundred feet to a placard at the Branch Stream Fen Overlook site. Check out the cattle crossing, and watch for heron, turtles, and the many songbirds living in and around this beautiful area. There’s also another 2 1/2 miles of trails in the reserve to enjoy.
Editor’s note: Did you see something unusual last time you were out in the woods? Were you puzzled or surprised by something you saw? Ask our Out in the Woods columnist Kevin McKeon. He’ll be happy to investigate and try to answer your questions. Email him directly at: kpm@metrocast.net
